camino de santiago de compostela luxembourg

I first conceived the idea of running the Camino de Santiago de Compostela in Luxembourg (180km, 2800m+) non-stop in 2020 during the Corona pandemic, when all my runs were cancelled. But even this project could not be realised either due to the curfew, self-isolation and other restrictions. Also after the pandemic, my plan was postponed once again because of a strained ligament after a race.. Finally, end of September 2023 seemed to be the right moment. I just knew it and felt it. Above all, it was in fact an incredibly intense and emotional experience.

Three weeks before the Camino, I took part in the Ultra Trail Mullerthal. The 112 kilometres were the perfect training for my plan to run the Camino de Santiago non-stop. I prepared everything in detail, thoroughly reviewing each part of the route and planning my breaks and refreshment points all over the 180km. I also calculated my estimated arrival times. They seemed a little optimistic. Nevertheless, I thought it would be possible. I also combined my run with a fundraising project for ASA asbl, a non-profit organisation that trains and provides assistance dogs.

I started the Camino de Santiago at midday on 29 September in Lieler, also known as the border triangle. First, I ran through the north of Luxembourg with its pine trees and slate. Then I ran alongside the Our Valley, passing Vianden and the castle. A runner named Pierrot joined me there for a while. The weather was mixed, and it started to rain heavily when it got dark. After about 68 km, I took my first break at my home in Echternach. My partner, Mike, was waiting for me in the pedestrian zone and I ran past the basilica. I was pretty soaked, so I had a hot shower and ate something before continuing on the Mullerthal Trail towards the "Jakobsberg", where ultra-runner Claude was waiting for me in his camper van. He was supposed to join me for the night as I was a bit worried about being out alone all night. Unfortunately, a few days before the start, he told me that he had a bad cold and wouldn't be able to run with me. Instead, he waited for me at certain points every 5–6 kilometres all night in the camper.

It was a night dominated by heavy fog and a full moon. I had to turn off my head torch as it was impossible to see anything at all. Apart from some glowing animal eyes, I didn't see much around me. Sometimes, a startled owl flew over my head. It was really scary. But I overcame my fears again and again and just ran through the forest and along seemingly endless field paths. I tried not to think about The Blair Witch Project and similar horror films. I have to admit that there were times when I was really really scared. Keeping my goal of making it to the camper as quickly as possible in mind, I sped up to make sure I stayed within my time limits.

When I arrived in Grevenmacher at around midnight, having covered about 90 km, I was really tired and decided to lie down for half an hour. I didn't sleep, but I recovered a little. Then I continued over the "Potaschberg", passing through an industrial area where large trucks were parked up and resting. Again, there was a horror movie like scene when a big truck suddenly pulled up behind me. I accelerated to get onto the cycle path quickly. I continued along endless country roads, passing old, empty farms and a slaughterhouse. Seeing the camper always made me feel better. It gave me a sense of security.

At 6:00, I arrived at a car park in Syrdall where I planned to spend an hour in the camper. I met two other runners at 7:00 who joined me for about three hours. As we ran through Luxembourg city, the sun came up and the fog lifted. We continued on to Kockelscheuer, where Claude was waiting again with the camper, croissants and coffee.

Then I continued on my own. After running about 130 km, I was passing through the woods in Bettenbourg when I suddenly saw a familiar face that I didn't immediately recognise. It was a colleague from work, and this unexpected encounter gave me a boost of motivation — I was so happy to see someone!

A few kilometres further on, I met another runner, Chantal, who joined me for a short distance. By the time I reached Dudelange after 146 km, I was really struggling. I was battling fatigue and didn't know how to proceed. I bought some chips and a Coke and sat down on a bench. I found this area unpleasant. Suddenly, the rubbish bin next to me started to burn — someone had thrown a cigarette in it. A shopkeeper ran out with a bowl of water and asked if anyone had alerted the fire brigade yet. The whole scene just seemed so unreal and bizarre. I got up and just wanted to leave that place.

Then I ran out of Dudelange and had to cross a section of motorway. I must have looked incredibly weird to the drivers. I continued through the Obel Forest, still feeling very tired. Chantal, who had accompanied me earlier, asked me when I would arrive in Mondorf. At that point, I didn't know if I was going to make it anywhere. I was really pushing myself. I listened to some Tom Waits music that kept pushing me on... 'You got to hold on, hold on' was on repeat. Then Chantal ran towards me again, this time with an ice-cold spinach and mango smoothie. She had brought me some fruit earlier, as I was having trouble eating. I was so happy to have her with me, and the smoothie was excellent. The spinach did the job, and I arrived in Mondorf a little bit early, where I was then accompanied by two lovely runners all the way to Schengen.

Completing my first 100 miles was also a special moment for me. But it wasn't over yet — I still had over 18 kilometres to go. It was really tough! But now I just wanted to finish. In the end, I fell into a calm, peaceful state — I just kept moving, one step at a time, despite my aching feet. But even that was no longer a problem. My brother and my little nieces were waiting for me in Schengen. I was really looking forward to see them. Asa asbl was also there to welcome me.

I completed the Camino (180 km) in 31 hours and 45 minutes, staying on track with my schedule. As I said before, it was just the right moment. Here is a video of my arrival in Schengen.

I would also like to thank everyone who has supported my project, whether through their company, messages of support during the run, or donations.